News

ironing Heat treatment of garment parts or garments. role The role of ironing is: (1) smooth, eliminate fabric crepe. (2) Weft filling, correct the deviation of weft silk strands formed in the dyeing and finishing process of the fabric, so that the fabric can be restored to facilitate cutting and sewing. (3) pre-expansion, prevent the garment piece in sewing due to heat and expansion phenomenon. (4) deformation, the use of fabric plasticity, the fabric local deformation, make the shape of the garment from straight to arc or from arc to straight, in order to process fit garment. (5) Plastic, modify the appearance of the garment, make up for the shortcomings in the process of operation, so that the appearance is flat, stick to the clothing, not warped. conditions Ironing requires three conditions: temperature, humidity and pressure. Temperature is the key. According to the performance characteristics of all kinds of fabric, the added heat and the inherent heat resistance of the fabric should be adapted. Too high a temperature will damage the fabric, too low a temperature will not work. Usually grasp the ironing temperature: synthetic fiber 90 ~ 160℃ (polyamide fiber 90℃), silk 120℃, wool 160℃ (humidification cloth 200℃), cotton 180℃, hemp 190℃. The size and length of ironing pressure, according to the thickness of clothing and raw material inherent properties. Generally thin material loose required less pressure, ironing time is short, thick material dense on the contrary. Fabric cannot be ironed directly on the face of the table, need mat thin blanket, wool product still needs wet cloth on the cover, in order to maintain the dress neat and do not produce reflective light. methods Ironing methods are mainly: (1) push, return, pull. It is a traditional ironing technique for processing woolen clothing, which can make the flat piece produce three-dimensional modeling and the effect of clothing fitting flat. Push and return interact. Push, is in the piece of the chest, back, buttock and other parts of the push hot, so that the fabric uplift; Return, it is according to the raised edge of the human body, the fabric of the corresponding part of the garment is aggregated and ironed, so that the length of the edge is shortened, so that the effect of the raised part is more significant. Pull, is the need to extend the part of the garment, the fabric is pulled out (elongation) ironing, usually used for the waist, sleeve elbow, collar foot and pants piece crotch (knee) and other parts. (2) grinding hot. Press back and forth repeatedly. It is used for chest lining and top of chest fulvidraco. (3) press. Press firmly on the iron to firm and thin the fabric. Used for ironing skirts, corners, etc. (4) baking hot. When the iron is suspended, it does not contact the fabric directly. Used for ironing the collar, collar, hem and other angular parts of clothing, so that it is not warped. (5) hot rolling. Use the outer edge of the iron, along the arc of the seam, with the help of an iron stool (iron shoulder, armhole stool tool) iron. It is often used for ironing the armhole arc of the jacket and the crotch arc of the trousers. 6 iron absorption. Cover the fabric with a damp cloth and iron quickly and lightly at high heat. Used for ironing heavy woolen surface and eliminating splash and light, etc. 7 points. Use the tip of an iron to separate the folded seams. Button was hot. Use for ironing the seams or frills, etc. Pet-name ruby sit very hot. Use the front side of the iron to press the seam down in a directional direction. Mostly used for folding folding ironing. Attending turned hot. The parts are sewed on the back and then turned out for front ironing. Used for ironing parts such as bag cover, collar, door front and inner front. Very hot. Squeegee ironing type adhesive lining (see clothing material) ironing, adhesive effect. tool The iron is the main tool for ironing clothes. In The Han Dynasty, there was an iron, also known as "fire bucket", which was a ladle-shaped object for holding charcoal fire. Modern ironing consists of iron and charcoal iron (commonly known as charcoal wheel), which uses charcoal as heat source and uses bellows to accelerate temperature. Electric irons have been more common since the 1950s. In the late 1950s, the first generation of "three-collar machine" was successfully developed in China, which was used for bonding and arc shaping of shirt collar. A special bonding machine for fusible interlining by hot pressing was invented in England. The adhesive machine has developed into two kinds of rolling and pressing which can control time, pressure and temperature, and become a new ironing tool matching with the new sewing process. For the ironing of semi-finished products and finished products, we have applied the steam ironing machine such as moulding, inflating, multi-station rotary and garment piece return drawing machine. A suit steam ironing equipment can complete 12 kinds of final ironing and 18 kinds of intermediate ironing, such as sleeve ironing, body ironing, stereoplastic ironing, etc., so that the products are dry, ironing marks are shaped and there is no light. Modern ironing new equipment, new technology, greatly improved the ironing quality of products.

decoration The garment processing technology that plays the role of decoration is mainly handmade. It has the characteristics of superb craftsmanship, unique style and long history. Clothing made with decorative technology is regarded as a fine work of art. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, these traditional crafts were inherited and developed. Processing in addition to the creation of special tools such as inlay, inlay, roll, swing, plate, embroidery, but also to the use of machines, commonly used equipment is embroidery machine, high-frequency ginning machine, quilting machine and a variety of multi-functional decorative sewing machines. Advanced computer embroidery machine, using nine color embroidery, 24 heads work synchronously, and equipped with two to 25 needle machine of more than 10 kinds of decorative machines, can create complex art patterns on the fabric. Adornment craft has traditional adornment, fancy adornment, special art adornment 3 kinds. Traditional decoration It mainly refers to the traditional insert, insert, roll (also called pipe), swing, disk. ① Insert: the heterogeneous or heterogeneous cloth, in the form of edge, insert, insert color composition of different flavor of the overall clothing. (2) Embedding: insert thread in the middle of two layers of fabric. Insert line according to the location of the insert, insert, according to the shape of a flat insert, round insert (insert string). ③ Rolling: according to the direction of material longitude and weft take 45° strip oblique material to wrap the edge of the garment piece solid, coated. It is a common decorative method to treat the edges of clothing. There are fine incense roll, narrow roll, broad roll, single roll, double roll; Or according to the level of sewing has two layers of rolling, three layers of rolling, four layers of rolling (commonly known as skin head rolling). Rolling and inlay are often used in combination, giving a delicate and luxurious aesthetic feeling, for the front, collar, neckline, bottom, vent and other parts. ④ Swing: commonly known as swing. A form of decoration in which a strip of material is hung at one part of a garment. There is a single swing, double swing, unilateral line swing, narrow swing, wide swing, single swing, double swing, a roll swing, a roll two swing. Used for women's wear, children's wear decoration, simple, elegant, unique characteristics. ⑤ dish: with fabric or silk rope made of a loop, dish into a variety of patterns. Disc flower, disc two. Dish beautiful it is to bend a loop for fastening a loop into all sorts of flowers design, the buckle of the place such as seam at the collar of dress, bosom before, place closes or adornment, produce the artistic effect that has real in empty, it is the delicate adornment of high-grade dress. The button is twisted into a variety of color buttons with a loop strip. Empty heart flower, solid flower, two-color flower, etc. 3. Rich themes and profound connotations, such as "fu, Lu, longevity", "longevity peach", flowers, animals and other pictographic flower buttons, with strong national characteristics. Fancy decoration It mainly refers to the addition of flounces, tassel pendants, package buttons, velvet balls, rope and other accessories on clothing, or for line, flower, pleating, pleating and so on. Special art decoration The use of special techniques in clothing to display decorative effects. Embroidery, hand painting, batik, tie-dye, etc., are common techniques of art decoration (see craft decorative clothing).

sewing The process of stitching pieces of clothing into a garment. It can be divided into hand sewing process, machine sewing process, special process, etc. Hand sewing process Garment processing technology The process of sewing by hand needle. It is a traditional Chinese handicraft skill. Many stitches and their functions cannot be replaced by modern sewing machines. With fine stitch, smooth, rich needling and other characteristics, known as high-grade technology. Commonly used hand sewing process needle see table. The main tools of hand sewing are hand stitches and headbands. 7 ~ 9 needles should be used for fine fabrics such as silk; Keyhole nail should be used 4 ~ 5 needle, general wool with moderate thickness of 6 ~ 8 needle. Machine sewing process Garment processing technology Garment processing technology The process of sewing with a sewing machine. It has the advantages of neat stitch and high efficiency. Commonly used machine sewing processes are as follows. (1) seam (including pocket seam); Stitch the pieces together. Used for dark stitching garment piece combination or pocket cover, collar, cuff, etc. (2) Sewing: one layer of garment edge over another layer of garment edge sewing, and then for the second or third time. There are explicit packages, hidden packages. It is generally used for the seam of cloth garment without hem. (3) Sewing: bite the middle layer of the upper and lower layers of the garment, the front side of the line. Used for sleeve, waist etc. (4) riding seam: two pieces of fabric seam connection (not stacked), in the connection of the w-shaped stitch, so that the two pieces of cloth hold each other. Generally used for high-grade clothing interlining splicing and receiving catfish. (5) flat joint: two pieces of fabric joint stitching, complement each other. Used for connecting long garment parts, etc. ⑥ Flat seam: two fabric seams overlap, in the middle of the seam. Used for interlining splicing and receiving catfish etc. 7 to seam: the two pieces of overlapping, first along the front of the hair mouth slit (3cm), and then in the reverse side of the wide seam (about 7cm). Mostly used for single garment stitching. ⑧ Points: two layers of clothing laminated seams, seams apart, each side of a clear line. Often used for fabric that is not easy to fold (such as leather) or thread finish. Seated stitching: two pieces are sewn together, the seam is inverted, and the front side is sewed for a second time. Often used as a fixed seam or stitch decoration. ⑩ Separate stitching: Two pieces of clothing are first joined together, split the seam by pouring the seam apart, and add a bright thread to the separate seam. It is mainly used for front sleeve seam, crotch seam and back seam of cloth clothing. Pressure stitching (tight stitching) : the upper seam refraction, covering the lower piece, a stitch forming. It is mainly used for the assembly of front and back shoulder, arc type, sharp Angle type and other parts. Leaky seam: the thread is leaky in the slot or sit close to the edge of the seam, which can not only make the thread trace hidden, but also fix the bottom piece. It is often used for installing waist head, lining and so on. Edging: press the foot with edging or smooth the mouth with finger. Often used for a single garment or the hem of an undergarment. Reverse stitch: To stitch back and forth over the original stitch. Used for beginning and end reinforcement, sealing, fork sealing, belt loop, etc. Main machine sewing equipment of modern garment processing, in addition to high-speed flat sewing machine (sewing machine), there are many more line sewing needle sewing machine, overlock sewing machine (for short) and replace the manual open bag, lock, pin buckle, barge, the complex lining (garment and clothing line combination), cut sleeve, waistband, pleating and other special stand-alone, and multi-functional automatic speed control circuit solid electronic sewing machine. In the 1980s, the more advanced machine sewing equipment is automatic sewing system, using industrial cameras and electronic computer monitoring, can automatically identify the style of cutting, transmission and automatic classification control.

tailoring The process of separating cloth into various forms. There are batch cutting (also known as industrial cutting) and single cutting points. Bulk cutting Multi-layer cutting according to garment size series production template. It is the main cutting form in garment industry production. The main steps are: (1) material inspection. It is mainly the physical and chemical inspection of the expansion rate, color fastness and heat resistance of the garment material, checking the defects, measuring the width, arranging the weft skew and the heat pre-shrinkage. (2) Develop specifications and samples. According to the garment style, specification, material performance and sewing process requirements, make the garment piece sample with cardboard for drawing sample, and make specifications and matching. (3) discharge. Arrange the sample pieces on the cloth or paper with the same width of the cloth in order to maximize the utilization rate of the cloth. (4) sample. According to the layout of the format, according to the template to draw the outline and marking. Large batch products usually use the pattern of leakage (the discharge line is drilled into the isometric continuous pinhole pattern), to brush (powder brush into the hole so that the leakage is revealed) instead of marking. In the 1960s, computer aided design system (CAD) appeared for clothing design, according to the actual sample or scale drawing of the layout of the new technology. 5) material. According to the length, width and quantity required by the layout and sample, the cloth is laid on the cutting table in layers. In the 50s, in addition to manual paving, the use of wheelbarrow or round-trip electric paving machine operation. 80's microcomputer control of automatic paving machine, can automatically positive, negative cross or single-side paving, automatic edge, counting and so on. 6. Open cut. Cut garment material into garment pieces according to sample line. Usually with vertical electric scissors (see daily hardware), the maximum cutting thickness can be up to 160mm, about 200 layers of thin fabric. In addition, there are various auxiliary cutting equipment, such as belt cutting machine (also known as ring knife cutting machine), punching machine. In the late 1960s, a computer-controlled automatic cutting machine (CAM) appeared. 7 the subcontract. Cut garment pieces according to different specifications, color classification, into a number of bags. Number today. To group the pieces of a garment into the same serial number. There are two kinds of package number or piece number. Shirts, pajamas and other products are usually numbered by one piece of the same color material in order, and for those easy to produce color difference, they are numbered by layers. Print with automatic numbering machine. Pet-name ruby package. Bind the combination cut pieces of the product together according to the specified collocation requirements, mark the label and hang the label on the outside of the package.

The textile and garment industry is divided into three layers: upstream raw material supply industry, midstream textile and garment manufacturing industry, and downstream garment trade industry. Among them, there are mainly two kinds of upstream raw materials, namely cotton and chemical fiber. This field also concentrates a large number of listed companies. The price fluctuation of petrochemical industrial products upstream of cotton and chemical fiber will improve the performance of these companies, but will suppress the performance of downstream companies. The mid-stream manufacturing, after the recent capacity reduction, has reduced the operating burden of the industry, and all kinds of new production technologies have reduced the manufacturing cost to a certain extent. However, it is generally a link with low added value, strong substitutions and more potential production capacity, and its profits are easily reduced but not increased. The downstream industries are mainly divided into garment industry, household textile industry and industrial textile industry, with the largest scale of garment industry. In the garment industry, the investment of brands and online and offline channels is more important, but because of the difficulty of these two actions, the performance of different companies is obviously differentiated. It is worth noting that the Chinese home textile industry at present is in the growth stage of industry life cycle, with the rapid development of China's economy and the deepening of the global textile industry transfer, China has become a manufacturer of home textiles and consumption power, is expected in the future with a huge space for development and market capacity, home textile industry will become China's textile main constitution of economic growth. Overall, in recent years, the upstream prosperity of textile and apparel has maintained a low level. Despite continuous capacity reduction, the downstream demand conversion and contraction are also continuing. Overall significant product substitution continues to erode upstream profits.